The Old Harbour at Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik, Croatia’s southernmost city, has overcome much strife and many wars. Founded 1,300 years ago by Greek refugees, whose ancient city of Epidaurum was destroyed by an earthquake, Dubrovnik itself survived major earthquakes in 1520, 1667 and 1979. It endured invasion by Napoleon in 1806, the 100-year-long Austro-Hungarian occupation, and the arrival of Mussolini’s Fascist forces in 1941.

However, throughout it all, the Old City of Dubrovnik continued to stand, upholding its reputation as the "pearl of the Adriatic." In recognition of its age, beauty and authenticity, UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) designated the Old City of Dubrovnik a World Heritage Site in 1979.

Then came the Balkan War that dominated world headlines during the 1990s. With political changes sweeping Eastern Europe, the Republic of Croatia decided to end more than four decades of communist rule and declared its independence. In retaliation, Yugoslavia’s federal army, along with Montenegrin militia, attacked the old city in early October 1991. The walls that have encircled Dubrovnik for more than 700 years, one of the most beautiful and strongest fort systems in Europe, could not protect the city against modern military weapons. Over the ensuing eight-month siege, the city was bombarded with more than 2,000 shells, causing damage to a number of significant heritage structures. In response, UNESCO added the Old City of Dubrovnik to its list of "world heritage in danger."

Yet, even while war waged around them and with limited resources, the citizens of Dubrovnik began to restore their medieval masterpiece. Under the guidance of experts, they consulted ancient manuscripts to determine the designs, tools and materials used in original construction. They duplicated the colors and shapes of original roof tiles. In seven years, they had the city looking like its old self again, and UNESCO removed it from the "in danger" list.

The Old City of Dubrovnik is located on what is sometimes called the Dalmatian Riviera, on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea, at the foot of 412-meter-high Mount Srd. Its 25-meter-high walls are its most prominent feature. They completely surround the old city, with a huge fortress, five bastions, two corner towers plus three circular and 12 square or rectangular towers along their 1,940-meter length. A stroll upon the city walls is a highlight of any visit, rewarded with spectacular views of the red tiled roofs within and the blue Adriatic Sea beyond.

Most visitors enter the old city at Pile Gate, a stone bridge within two Gothic arches designed by Paskoje Milicevic in 1471. Above the arch on the inner side of the gate is a statue of St. Blaise, patron of the city, overlooking a wooden drawbridge, which used to be raised every evening.

Just inside the city is Onofrio’s Fountain, named for its creator, Onofrio de la Cava. When completed in 1444, it was connected by an aqueduct to a spring in Rijeka Dubrovacka, 20 kilometers away. During the plague, people entering the city had to stop at this large 16-sided fountain and cleanse themselves before they were allowed to go any further.

Opposite the fountain is the Franciscan Monastery, dating from 1337. Its remarkable cloister was built in Romanesque-Gothic style by Mihoje Brajkov, with bestiary motifs on the capitals. The old pharmacy located there, opened in 1317, is the third oldest pharmacy in Europe but the oldest one still functioning. The pharmacy initially catered to the monastery but it eventually served the city’s entire population. Many of its antique fittings, equipment and books are exhibited in the monastery museum, which also houses other objects from Dubrovnik’s past.

The old city’s main street, Stradun or Placa, is a broad pedestrian promenade stretching 300 meters from Pile Gate to Ploce Gate. It follows the line of a channel that once divided the town into two parts but was filled during the 12th century and paved during the 15th. The street is lined with stone houses, cafes and shops having the "na koljeno" combined door and counter. The "na koljeno" design consists of a door and window in a single frame spanned by a semicircular arch. Traditionally, the door was kept closed, and business was conducted over the window sill, which served as a counter. Off either side of Stradun, narrower side streets hold pleasant surprises for those who explore them: open air markets, artisans’ studios, quiet courtyards, covered loggias.

At the other end of Stradun sits St. Blaise Church, built between 1705 and 1717 by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropeli. The interior, inspired by San Maurizio in Venice, is rectangular with a central dome. At the main altar is a golden statue of St. Blaise holding a model of the town from the 16th century. Again "in danger" from the effects of age and nature, the church currently in undergoing restoration.

Nearby is Sponza Palace, a blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture designed by Paskoje Milieeviae and completed in 1522. The ground level exterior features monumental arcades, while the interior consists of a circular court arranged as a double cloister, with round arches on the ground floor and slightly pointed arches above. The building has been used for different purposes at different times in its history, including a customs house, a mint and warehouse. Its first floor was used for social gatherings and meetings of learned societies. Today, it houses the state archives.

Where Stradun veers onto Izmedu Vrata ud Ploca stands an elegant clock tower, 35 meters tall. The clock is a modern copy of the 1478 original (on display at Sponza Palace), with bronze figures of soldiers that strike the hour. However, the huge bell in the tower is original. It weighs more than 2,000 kilograms and was cast by Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin (John the Baptist of Rab) in 1506.

Before reaching Ploce Gate, Izmedu Vrata ud Ploca passes the 14th century Dominican Monastery. Graceful stone steps lead up to the plain facade, which conceals a Gothic ornamented cloister designed by Maso di Bartolomeo of Florence. The church’s architecturally simple interior is adorned with fine art, including two 17th century altarpieces by Francesco di Maria and 15th century paintings by Paolo Veneziano and Lorenzo di Marino Dobrieeviae. The monastery library, which was one of Europe’s largest libraries between the 15th and 17th centuries, has more than 16,000 volumes, 240 incunabula and important archival documents such as the oldest Latin translations of Avicenna and a tractate of St. Thomas Aquinas.

The eastern portal through the city walls is Ploce Gate. Its wooden drawbridge and twin-spanned stone bridge by Paskoje Milicevic are similar to those at Pile Gate. Likewise, a statue of St. Blaise watches over the structures.

George Bernard Shaw once wrote: "Those who seek paradise on earth should come to see Dubrovnik." The old city certainly has an enduring reputation as a jewel. Despite being battered and bruised throughout its history, it always seems to bounce back, its heritage restored and its spirit rejuvenated.